█ In the world of fashion, the label "unique" is advertised by almost every brand, but the Parisian family under Demna Gvasalia has become an extraordinary presence in the industry in recent years.

Founded in 1917 by the Spaniard Cristóbal Balenciaga, this haute couture house has achieved a major breakthrough in prestige and commercial achievement since it was taken over in 2015 by Demna Gvasalia, a Georgian designer and founder of Vetements.

From quirky social media writing, to products and advertising blockbusters that have caused widespread controversy in design and concept, brands have been growing in popularity, although they rarely use conventional commercial means such as endorsements and online reds to expand their reach. For the past few quarters, the Parisian family has been at the top of the list of "most popular fashion brands" published by Lyst Index, a fashion search engine. Lyst Index tracks the shopping habits of 65 million consumers worldwide, with a heat index of 12,000 brands.

At the same time, the Parisian family's business performance has long been bright.Demna continues to make a variety of "explosions" including dad shoes, socks, triangle bags, hourglass bags.Franois-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kaiyun Group, pointed out at a earnings conference that it is the fastest growing brand in the Group. In 2019, for the first time, the Parisian family's annual revenues have exceeded the 1 billion euro threshold and officially joined the "billion clubs" of the fashion industry.

It is natural for the public to draw the brand's "high controversy" and "high profitability" as an effective means of publicity. True, high exposure does mean a sales transformation behind traffic in the age of social media, but many of Demna's controversial designs and actions are not what the public understands as "bo eyeballs" and have profound implications behind them.In fact, Demna has often led the fashion industry in its interpretation of the society and consumer culture of the day, and the Parisian family, with its century-old tradition, has given him the space to express his ideas and the brand's historical heritage in perfect combination. It is precisely because of this deep understanding of the real world and penetration, so that the brand successfully attracted a loyal following.

Balenciaga Summer 21 PRE-COLLECTION Fashion Show

At the just-concluded Paris Family Summer 21 Pre-Collection fashion show, Demna once again brought a great show that perfectly incorporated personal characteristics into the brand's DNA. In the form of music videos, models, wearing the latest collection and large wraparound sunglasses, walked the streets of Paris in the dark at night. Few people use uniform model steps to interpret clothing, but walk the streets like ordinary people, but because the product uses old craft to reflect a sense of destruction, but let the whole effect appear sharp and personal. In the background music, the brand chose Corey Hart's 1984 song "Sunglasses at night" and was a new interpretation by the BFRND band, which ran through the entire scene and responded to the theme.

In the latest collection, designers on CristóOne of the classic elements left behind by bal Balenciaga has been explored in a completely new way.A variety of dresses are stitched together to form a variety of dresses with a novel structure, and each transformation gives a new sense of silhouet. Another tribute to the founder's design is the re-launched Fisherman's Mesh skirt. Mr. Balenciaga's original version is more feminine in terms of material, tailoring and design, while Demna's new version uses metal armor chains to create skirts that look refined, stylish, sharp and in line with the design philosophy of men and women.

In Demna's very good accessories field, this season also introduced several can be circled styles. The classic Neo Classic's new locomotive bag celebrates its 20th anniversary with a retro, old design; the Ville handbag is made of soft leather for the first time; and the Hourglass hourglass bag is made of artificial lambskin. X-Pander sneakers and Rhino Derby shoes, the season's staples, continue Demna's exaggerated design.

In line with the general trend of industry development, the post-epidemic debut of the Paris family also pay more attention to sustainable development and contribution.According to the brand, sustainability is the most important point conveyed this season: from material selection, design techniques, production processes, to wear and matching. In this range, 93.5% of the raw materials are sustainably certified or upgradeable for re-use, and 100% of the main components of the printing are sustainable. In addition, this season's products are mostly men and women wearing styles, but also effectively reduce the production of products due to excessive styles brought about by the environmental impact.

In addition to using environmentally friendly raw materials, this season's Parisian family has become a veritable upgrade cycle fashion brand. For example, one of the eco-friendly "furs" in this series is actually made by designers using the remaining shoelaces stitched into fur styles. By recycling and re-engineering, Demna consciously redesigns recycled used clothing to create a new fashion.In other words, he used his creative mind to give the already abandoned fabric "secondary life", the concept of sustainable integration into the source of creativity.The idea of upgrading circular design has long been a way of sustainable fashion, but previously only smaller or independent designer brands were using it. As a mainstream luxury brand, the Parisian family's full recognition of the concept also reflects the fashion industry's commitment to sustainable development.

Balenciaga Summer 21 Pre-collection

Of course, the Parisian family is a household name for luxury brands that live not only on the stage, but also in the daily lives of consumers. One of the most direct observations of the Chinese public is that designer Demna always likes to walk between "ugly" and "beautiful". Take his iconic Triple S Dad shoes, which he launched in September 2017, when the look and colour of the product were not accepted by brand management, and the bulky shape allowed consumers to link it to the word "ugly." However, ugly but comfortable, well-heeled dad shoes eventually became standard for fashionistas, and the high premium showed Demna's commercial influence, successfully leading the fashion trend and leading other brands to follow suit.

Behind the "true fragrance" of dad shoes is not that Demna suddenly reversed the concept of beauty and ugliness of the public consumer, dad shoes still can not match the beauty, but its style was accepted by the public. From the top of the industry to the general public, Dad's shoes let everyone begin to "ugly" and "beauty" definition and boundaries of a new thinking and understanding. Regarding the understanding of "ugly" and "beautiful", Demna once said something worth pondering: "It is very interesting to find the threshold in the human world that goes from ugly to beautiful, or from beautiful to ugly." "

It can be seen that the Eastern European designer, who graduated from the Royal College of Art in Antwerp, Belgium, and worked with Walter van Berendonck and Maison Martin Margiela, has long been deeply influenced by postmodern deconstructionism and has a breakthrough impulse and blood for the world's cognition. Coupled with Demna's complex childhood experiences and upcoming journeys, demna's worldview and design language are not binary opposites, but complex and fluid. This is perhaps one of the ideas he wanted to express when designing for the Parisian family:To subvert the inherent views and traditions of the fashion system, and use unconventional products to break through the limitations of human thinking and cognitive, showing the complexity of the real world.

If Demna's traditional rebellious spirit outlines the Parisian personality, he isThe design's undying authenticity and innoluent (evil) fun (playfulness) allow brands to find languages that can really communicate with the younger generation.

A closer look at the parisians' propaganda material on various social platforms will make ordinary people feel confused and even a little confused at first. On Instagram, one of the fashion industry's most important social platforms, Demna began a new text-release model in May 2018 that makes the brand's content interactions look more like a real person sharing everyday than an "authority" expressing its design philosophy unilaterally. This non-"official" model happens to be the one that the younger generation promotes, doubling the number of Instagram followers in paris over the past two years.

Over time, the overall image created by the Parisian family became commonplace and ordinary, distinct from the traditional haute couture house. For example, models who leave the brand rarely paint delicate make-up and don't deliberately pose for photos with their expressions and bodies at the most beautiful angle; they wear the high-end clothes of the Parisian family, but do the most everyday things, real and powerful.

At the deepest level,Demna should be a group of "sub" cultural youth who have captured the inner pursuit of pure and authenticity.His designs and works are intertred with neither flamboyant and extravagant traditional fashion people, nor the popular consumers of the cloud, but rather the "community of Balenciaga people" in his mouth. Followers of this community are often highly savouring niches and personalities, hoping to show their tastes, personalities and values through everyday dress and grooming; they share a common characteristic, which is to be tired of the falsehoods of the Internet age and therefore to pursue the sense of authenticity that is missing from their growing environment, and Demna's values transmitted through the Parisian family give them a deep sense of belonging.

An interesting phenomenon is that, globally, the commercialization of the Parisian family is still relatively low compared to other first-tier luxury brands. Brands have so far failed to create traditional positions such as spokesman, nor are they keen to use traffic stars and online stars to boost their heat. However, the Parisian family has always been one of the Chinese stars and internet red people like to spontaneously "bring goods" one of a number of brands, which is very attractive. After allThe charm of haute couture is not limited to the product itself, but the attitudes and values behind it are the key to truly making fashion glamour great;

In Demna's hands, the world of Paris has been making steady progress in pursuing and reshaping its own character. This season's show once again reflects the brand's excellent understanding of youth culture and reinforces the Parisian fashion label that belongs to Gen Z. But if the Parisian family wants "stay young, stay fabulous", the designer must be able to constantly subvert the world he has created with deconstruction and remodeling. For the Parisian family, where brand features have been shaped so distinctively, its enemy will not be any other brand, but how to go beyond the last self and remain fresh in the eyes of young people forever.